SECRET Service has visited Twenty Four in Belper before but was intrigued by recent publicity surrounding the restaurant proclaiming that the new chef in charge has cooked for The Queen.
… And, if it’s good enough for Her Majesty, it’s good enough for your spy.
On the last visit to Twenty Four it was claiming to be a “gastropub” (as was the fashion at the time), now it has declared itself as a pub, or rather a pub with great food. Identity crisis aside, your spy and trusty companion went undercover to see what all the fuss was about.
Twenty Four is part of The Lion Hotel, but with its separate entrance on Bridge Street feels like an entirely independent pub.
The decor didn’t seem to have changed much since your spy’s last visit, although it somehow appeared more inviting with flickering candles on each table and jars of tasty treats behind the bar.
Your spy and companion decided to prop up the bar before sitting down to the task in hand.
Secret Service opted for a bottle of Desperados lager, a rare find in bars in Belper and a refreshing reminder of sunnier climes, and my fellow diner supped a half pint of the pub’s guest ale, Yeti, from the local Falstaff Brewery.
Our server informed us proudly that The Lion Hotel would soon have its own ale from the same brewery, wittily entitled Roar Ale.
While sipping our pre-dinner tipple we perused the new menu, it wasn’t extensive but had a good variety of tempting courses, many of which appeared to be locally sourced. Secret Service eventually opted for the South coast & Grimsby fishcake with tartare sauce and pickles to start and my companion chose the marinated pork ribs, with a spring onion and pickled cucumber salad. We were not disappointed.
The fishcake was beautifully moist and the tartare sauce was undoubtedly home-made.
My companion declared that the rib was quite simply “perfectly succulent”.
For the main course your spy was intrigued by the 10oz onglet on the menu, and asked our waitress to explain this strange steak. We were informed that it is a rare cut of beef praised for its flavour and that in France it was often referred to as the butcher’s steak as they would keep it back for themselves as it’s so good. Your spy was sold and ordered the onglet with its mushroom, onion rings, salad leaves and chips.
The onglet was everything promised; beautifully tender, cooked to perfection with a slight livery edge.
My companion chose the beer-battered hake fillet with mushy peas and chips.
With George’s fish & chip shop just a stone’s throw away this new chef has strong competition.
The portions were generous and we felt very well fed but there’s always room for dessert.
My companion couldn’t resist the warm chocolate brownie and your spy was swayed by the roasted hazelnut and pecan tart with maple and ginger ice-cream.
The brownie was a chocolate lover’s dream; slightly crispy on the outside and then classically chewy on the inside.
The hazelnut and pecan tart was as good as the rest of the meal and the unusual homemade ice cream was simply divine.
Secret Service was not surprised to find that the chef with the royal accolade is actually the executive chef for the company so isn’t based day to day in Twenty Four but in our opinion his chef in Belper is equally capable in delivering a meal fit for a Queen.
Twenty Four serves food daily from noon to 3pm and 6pm to 9pm.
WHAT: Twenty Four
WHERE: Lion Hotel, Bridge Street, Belper
MEAL FOR TWO: South coast & Grimsby fishcake £5.50; marinated pork ribs £6.50; onglet steak £9.50; beer-battered hake fillet £9.50; warm chocolate brownie £4.75; roasted hazelnut and pecan tart £5; bottle of desperados £3, ½ pint of real ale £1.45; glass of Rioja £3.85; glass of Sauvignon Blanc £3.
TOTAL: £52.05
CALL: 01773 824033
source from: Derby Telegraph
